Friday, July 27, 2012

HTML List with No Heading/Bullet/Number

I make a lot of bulleted lists for this blog, as well as other Web-based tutorials and design documents.  Often I will want to insert a centered graphic for a given bullet point, however the indentation of the list will offset the center justification of the image - which looks like garbage on the narrow area provided in this blog's style.

I can usually close the tags of the list, insert a centered graphic and move on with my life, however there are a few instances where I will want to return to the indentation of the list without starting a new bullet point.

Basic illustration:
Example:
  • A single item in an unordered list
A centered image outside of an unordered list

Code:
<ul>

<li>An example list</li>
</ul>

<img src="lolinternet.gif" />

Omit <li> tags or use <p>:
Instead of using a list item tag (<li>), use a paragraph tag (<p>) to jump back into the indentation without including a new bullet point.

Example:
  • Another unordered list item
Another centered image,
outside of <ul> tags
    Returning to indentation without a bullet point
  • An additional bullet point

Code:
<ul>

<li>Another unordered list item</li>
</ul>

<img src="lolinternet_8bit.gif" />

<ul>
<p>Returning to indentation without a bullet point </p>
<li>An additional bullet point </li>
</ul>



Jump back into ordered lists in any defined order:
However rarely, it is sometimes necessary to have more control over the order of a list.  One can begin a list at any position using any style.  These attributes have been deprecated and one should instead utilize a style, but the idea is still the same.

Example - The Buzz Ordering System:


  1. I'm not that lucky
  1. We have smoke detectors
  1. We live on the most boring street in the United States of America; where nothing even remotely dangerous will ever happen. Period!

Code:

<img src="buzz.PNG" />
 
<ol type="a">
<li value="1">I'm not that lucky</li>
</ol>

<ol>
<li value="2">We have smoke detectors</li>
</ol>

<ol type="A">
<li value="4">We live on the most boring street in the United States of America; where nothing even remotely dangerous will ever happen. Period!</li>
</ol>

Where the type="" attribute sets the ordered marker style, with numbers as the default/inherent value:
  • 1 = Numbers: 1, 2, 3, 4, 5...
  • A = Capital letters: A, B, C, D, E...
  • a = Lowercase letters: a, b, c, d, e...
  • I = Roman numerals: I, II, III, IV, V...
  • i = Small Roman numerals: i, ii, iii, iv, v...
The value="" attribute sets the starting position, with 1 as a default value. 

Read more about these methods:

Saturday, July 14, 2012

DIY GoPro Extension/Boom Pole/Monopod

A wide angle shot from a higher than usual aspect looks really cool and a boom pole is pretty easy to make. Further, a monopod (a more portable version of a tripod) can give your video or sequence photography some much needed stability.  I gathered some cheap parts and finally took a stab at it.

You can make it as simple as using the GoPro "handlebar and seat post bicycle mount" and attaching it to a length of PVC pipe, or a broom.  Done.

GoPro Handlebar Seat Post Bicycle Mount - $20
I went a little bit further and combined a GoPro tripod mount with 2' sections of detachable PVC pipe.  Here's how I set it up:
Parts:
  • Buy a desired number of ½" x 2' long sections of PVC pipe, or cut a single long piece into appropriate lengths ($4-8, tops)
  • Grab a couple ½" PVC end caps (I ended up leaving the bottom end open, but I'll use an end cap on the bottom of the the pole when using it as a monopod), and a few male and female ½" threaded PVC adapters (under a dollar each)
  • Pick up the following nuts & bolts from a hardware store (Ace Hardware is easy to navigate)
    - a ¼"-20 thread count by 1½" long brass or stainless steel flat head bolt (80¢)
    - a ¼"-20 hex nut (33¢)
    - a A ¼"-20 wing nut (95¢)
¼"-20 bolt is the standard camera/tripod bolt size.
The tapered head will help snugly fit into the PVC end cap.
Assembling:
Putting the pieces together is pretty straight forward.
  • Attach the GoPro tripod mount to the camera housing
  • Drill a hole in the top of the end cap with a ¼" bit.  From the inside face of the PVC cap, counter sink the hole just a little bit with a 5/16" bit which will give a little more room for the tapered head of the bolt to sit
  • Now simply tighten the bold down with the single hex nut on the outside
  • Finish the top section by attaching the wing nut upside down to help secure the camera when it's attached.  I was sure to have an extra hex nut to help secure the wing nut when a camera is not attached so the wing nut doesn't fall off
  • Simply pressing or tapping the end cap assembly onto the end of a piece of pipe should be enough to securely fasten it securely.  You could glue it, but it'll be a pain if you want to change something in the future
Finished top section
  • Finally, glue the male and female end caps to a few lengths of PVC pipe so they can quickly attach to one another, making a small or long boom pole.
½" PVC coupling
  • You could even tape off the threads and the head and spray paint the finished pole.  I wouldn't mind that at all.
Shooting techniques:
Since you will have less control over exactly where the camera is pointing, you will generally want to shoot multiple pictures and select the best shot in post production.
  • Burst mode: The GoPro Hero cameras allow a photographer to take a number of pictures in rapid succession.  The Original HD Hero only allows 3 shots, but the Hero2 can be set to shoot up to 10 images in rapid succession.  There is a slight delay from when the shutter button is depressed to when the shots actually fire. If you're working with a single section or short pole, the burst mode can work well for you, allowing enough time for the camera to be raised to an acceptable height.
  • Time lapse: For longer boom poles, this is likely your better option.  Set a short frame rate (one frame per second) and hold the camera where you think the best view will be for a few frames.  Especially with wobble, a few extra shots could help find the best view possible.  Try moving around just slightly to get a wider variety of shots if necessary.
  • Monopod use: Shooting smooth video is key to good video production.  Nobody wants to watch a shaky video.  Place the bottom of the pole on the ground to help stabilize a video or a sequence of shots.  Have an extra PVC end cap for this use.
  • Beach/sand use: Stick the open end (no end cap) into the sand and set the camera to video or time lapse for a quick and easy way to record a sand castle or to take self portraits and other video.  If the ground is loose enough away from the beach, you can try this type of shot in other locations as well.

Results:
The only problem is that PVC is a little wobbly when it gets long, so you may want to spring for a thicker grade pipe.  Either way, it bends with increased length.

I started with three 2' sections which gives me an extra 6' perspective above my reach.  A car or ladder will extend that even further without additional pole wobble.  The 4' boom pole wobble (using only 2 sections) is minimal and moves around mostly because of principles of leverage.  A 6' boom with a strong two-handed grip seems like it would be a little more stable.

Here are a few overhead photos I've been able to take with all three sections connected.  Holding the pole over my head creates a camera perspective from around 15' above the ground.

A slightly overhead shot of my house from around 15' up -
pretty much level with the heads of the sabal palms.

The sea grapes in front of these cars are at least 8' high which
ends up blocking  the view of the water from the parking lot.